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| Gear Guru Speaks - Toe Torture |
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| This Month's Question: |
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| courtesy of backcountry.com |
| by Backcountry Bob |
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Q. I have heard two different
sides as to the choice of shoes when rock climbing. On one hand, I've heard that
toe-numbing tight is the best way to go; on the other, tight but not too tight.
Which is it?
A. In my mind the toe numbing tight philosophy is
the most ridiculous idea that ever came around—but it sure did. With the advent
and growing popularity of sport climbing in the 80's and 90's, this fad became
almost totally accepted as gospel. I, too, used to crush my toes into shoes 2+
sizes too small for a five-year-old, all in the name of sensitivity and
performance. I had friends that would have to remove their shoes half way up an
80-foot route just to relieve the cramping in the arches! My feet have never
been the same since.
Really though, it depends on what kind of climbing
you're doing, and at what level. Many climbers have several different pairs for
the specific type of climbing they are participating in for the day. For
instance, I go with my regular shoe size (I can even wear thin socks) for my
all-day or long trad route shoe. No toe cramping here—I can even walk off a
climb in them if necessary.
For shorter trad or harder sport routes my
shoes are definitely sized down for a tighter fit—but certainly not painful.
These type of routes usually only require you having your shoes on for 15
minutes at a time or less, so a little discomfort is acceptable. A tight fit
will give you increased "feel" or sensitivity, but I believe there is the law of
diminishing returns at work here, as well.
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